the only gay bar in the village

Beyond the Steppe: Discovering Ulaanbaatar's Unexpected LGBTQ+ Gem

Mongolia. Visions of vast steppes, nomadic herders, and the legacy of Genghis Khan likely dance in your head. But what about its LGBTQ+ scene? On a journey through this captivating nation, we stumbled upon something truly special: a vibrant, defiant gay bar in the heart of Ulaanbaatar, a testament to resilience and the universal desire for community.

The Hunt for Hanzo: A Ulaanbaatar Adventure

Our trip to Mongolia coincided with the electrifying Naadam Festival, the country's annual celebration of strength and skill. After immersing ourselves in the wrestling matches and vibrant opening ceremonies, we were curious about the local gay scene. In a society still grappling with conservative traditions, we knew finding LGBTQ+ spaces might be a challenge.

Armed with Grindr and a thirst for adventure, we connected with some local gay men who pointed us towards a venue called Hanzo. On a Saturday night, we set off to find it. Have you ever felt that thrill of anticipation, searching for something hidden in plain sight?

Following GPS coordinates through a maze of Soviet-era apartment blocks, we felt a little lost. The area, though close to Sukhbaatar Square, Ulaanbaatar's central hub, was unassuming. No signs, no rainbow flags – nothing to indicate the existence of a gay bar. Just rows of grey concrete. Just as we were about to give up, a familiar melody drifted through the air.

Swan Lake and a Hidden Doorway

It was Swan Lake! Tchaikovsky's masterpiece seemed to beckon us forward, guiding us through the labyrinth. The music led us to a ground-level door at the back of one of the buildings. We pushed it open, and suddenly, we were transported to another world.

The first thing we saw was a Mongolian man in a tight white dress, a giant swan head perched jauntily on his head, frolicking and lip-syncing to Swan Lake. It was gloriously absurd, utterly captivating, and the crowd was eating it up. A mix of local gay men and women of all ages cheered him on as he transitioned into a set of Mongolian pop hits. The atmosphere was electric.

Meeting Zorig: The Heart and Soul of Hanzo

After his performance, the swan-clad man headed to the bar. We soon discovered he was Zorig, the owner of Hanzo. Charismatic, talented, and with an infectious energy, Zorig was the heart and soul of this hidden oasis. We were immediately drawn to his story.

He shared his struggles to keep a gay bar alive in Ulaanbaatar, facing homophobic landlords and the constant challenge of attracting enough patrons. Every few years, he had to move to a new location, a testament to the difficulties faced by the LGBTQ+ community in Mongolia. It made us reflect on our own privileges – the freedom to be openly gay and the vibrant queer scenes we often take for granted in cities like London.

Zorig’s dedication resonated deeply. He embodied what it means to create a safe space, a haven for self-expression in a society that isn't always accepting. Have you ever wondered what it takes to build a community in the face of adversity?

Beyond Hanzo: Mongolia's LGBTQ+ Landscape

Over the years, we've stayed in touch with Zorig. Hanzo has evolved, changing names and locations, but it remains a central gathering place for Ulaanbaatar's LGBTQ+ community. Currently, it's known as the Melody Karaoke Bar, located near the main train station and close to Ulaanbaatar's other gay bars. While the original Hanzo signage is gone, its spirit lives on.

Zorig also organizes Mongolia's annual Equality Walk in August, a Pride celebration that includes a parade, a public concert, a film festival, and an after-party at his bar. It's a powerful display of visibility and a vital step towards greater acceptance.

Exploring Mongolia: A Traveler's Paradise

While Hanzo might be the only explicitly gay bar we found, Mongolia offers so much more. It's a land of breathtaking natural beauty and unique cultural experiences. If you're planning a trip, here are some highlights:

Tips for LGBTQ+ Travelers in Mongolia

Mongolia is generally safe for gay tourists. Mongolians are often more curious than judgmental. However, it's important to be mindful of local customs. Public displays of affection, whether straight or gay, are generally frowned upon. We found the staff at Sunpath Hostel to be exceptionally welcoming and gay-friendly, and they can arrange tours and transportation.

The Takeaway: Connection and Courage

Our experience at Hanzo and our conversations with Zorig left a lasting impression. It’s a reminder that even in the most unexpected places, you can find community and connection. Zorig's story is a testament to the courage and resilience of the LGBTQ+ community worldwide. So, the next time you're planning an adventure, consider Mongolia. You might just discover a hidden gem that changes your perspective.

Have you ever found an unexpected haven while traveling? Share your stories in the comments below!